Time & Tides

There is an old saying, “time and tide waits for no man”. Most understand the meaning of this quote nowhere is it more understood than on Smith Island. 

Smith Island is 12 miles off the coast of Crisfield, in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay. The only way to get there is by boat. It is made up of 3 communities: Ewell and Rhodes Point are connected by bridges and a road. Tylerton is separated from the other two communities and the only way to get there is by boat. The island was chartered by John Smith in 1608 and was settled around 80 years later. Many of the people on the island came from the original English settlers, including my wife and I. With all the challenges that islanders have faced in the past, they have constantly risen above their circumstances. Our language, our food, our way of living, and our faith in God have stood the test of time and tides.

Crab shanty reflections on Rhodes Point waterfront.

Having been born and raised on Smith Island, I have seen firsthand that we have a good understanding of what it is to live with nature. We have learned a deep respect for the elements. We do not try to bend time and tide to our will and we have learned the essence of going with the flow. When the weather is bad, the watermen stay in. When the weather is good they go out. Of course many of the watermen do work in rough weather, but they have learned to know where the line is to determine when to stay or when to go. Strong winds and high tides have been a part of island life ever since there have been people living there. They have stopped us from going to school, to work, to the store, to the post office and church. We understand that it will only last for a period of time, and when it’s over, we will continue with life as usual. Even though we have learned to live with what is thrown at us, that doesn’t mean we haven’t tried to figure out a way to “test the waters” from time to time. 

When my wife and I were dating I would get in my 16 foot skiff to travel to her home to see her. Every Friday and Saturday I would travel to Tylerton from Rhodes Point in the evening and come back home at night after our date. I would do this spring, summer, fall, and winter for 3 years, rain or shine. I knew this was the girl I was going to spend the rest of my life with and I was going to take advantage of every opportunity to see her. Even if I had to tempt fate a bit by trying to force time and tide.

Everett Landon in his skiff while dating Carole Ann in the early 90’s.

It’s not unusual during wintertime for the channels to freeze over for a week or two. One winter during a freeze there was no way to get my skiff through the ice to Tylerton. That particular Friday night we spent apart. I was determined not to let that happen again. The next day I pulled my one man rubber raft down from the attic and pumped it up, put on my wader boots, and started walking to Tylerton to see her. The cold temperatures had frozen the shallow areas to the point that it was safe to walk on. The center of the channel where I needed to cross over wasn’t frozen completely. When I got to the edge of the channel I put down the raft, got in, and paddled across. When I was on solid ice again I got out and finished my journey. Needless to say, I scored a lot of points that day! Not many husbands can say they walked on water to date their wife. 

Everett and Carole Ann in their boat Circuit Rider.

Recently, my wife and I have started a tour business called Experience Smith Island. Our purpose is to bring people over so they can gain a better understanding of the history and our way of life. Our guests get to travel on our boat to see all 3 communities, hear about our history, how we work the water, and how we have adapted to flow with time and tide. 

I have come to appreciate the forcing of having to sit still; being forced to wait; to flow with the tide in whichever direction it goes. It is one of those important life lessons that we know we need to learn but have difficulty applying it. Our strong faith in God helps us with this. Islanders know that no matter what storm or difficulty comes our way, it will all be ok in the end. I appreciate my heritage so much more now that I’m older. Smith Island is a living history and my wife and I have found a lot of joy in sharing who we are and where we come from with others. I have said before that our everyday life is your adventure and I hope we can have the opportunity to show you our island home.